On a recent road trip through Madhya Pradesh (according to me one of the least explored states of India, as rich in history and architectural wonders as Rajasthan, just not so well marketed!) by far the highlight of my journey was a stay at Ahilya Fort in the city of Maheshwar. It's on the Narmada river, one of India's holiest water bodies, but also a topic of controversy for a pending dam project which is supposed to displace thousands.
Maheshwar itself is a very old city, famous for the rule of Ahilya Bhai, one of India's "gutsiest" female rulers! She is responsible for making it a revered cultural and religious centre, as well as the capital of Maheshwari weaving.
For those of you who can, get the October issue of Travel + Leisure South Asia magazine where I have written an article on Maheshwar. But here, what I am going to speak about is, of course, what went on at the table!
I was expecting a lot of pleasant surprises, as Prince Richard Holkar is a well-known gourmet himself. He likes to cook, researches food, and has co-authored a book, The Cooking of the Maharajas (to be reviewed soon!) with his ex-wife. Unfortunately, he was not there when we were visiting, but the very able and energetic Kanta Bhai (who has helped bring up Holkar's children, and is now running the show at Ahilya Fort) more than made up with her can-do attitude. She not only served snacks and wine like a true major d'omo, but also made sure each bite was memorable!
As soon as we arrived, we were served refreshing jasmine-scented cold water. It was a big surprise - I had never tasted anything like this before. The aroma and flavour were very subtle and elegant, and not as "chemical" as I expected. Unfortunately they didn't know how it's made, as they import it from Udaipur.
Then, we were served tea and home-made ginger bread, full of chunks of fresh Indian ginger. I could just go on eating it!!!
Before we left for our boat ride on the Narmada, Kanta Bhai asked what do we want for dinner, and luckilly we left it all to her. She asked if I wanted fish, and don't ask me why I said "no" (I guess the mental block of monsoon vs fish), but later on, while cruising the river, I regretted it, when seeing fishermen with their catch of the day. So as soon as we got back, I asked if it wasn't too late to have fish. In true Kanta Bhai spirit, I was promptly told "yes".
Ahilya Fort has no formal dining room, so a table for three (us and a French architecture scholar visiting on Prince Holkar's request) was laid under a huge tree in the courtyard. Heavy and sturdy thali sets were laid out for us. We were famished!
And there came the food: smooth bean curry, potatoes with fresh coriander stalks, a very light mutton dish, shredded okra (lady fingers), a veg korma (vegetables simmered in an almond-based gravy), and of course my fish, made just like I wanted it - with a touch of olive oil, salt and pepper! Absolutely yummy!!!
After the typically Indian flavours, we were served the most surprising and cutest fusion desert - a whole apple, filled with soft cardamom pods and raisins, baked, and served with cream.
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm!
After this sumptious dinner, we fell asleep peacefully in our beautiful room, listening to the sounds of worship coming from the ghats below.
Do I need to mention we were given home made brown bread for breakfast the next day??
AHILYA FORT, MAHESHWAR. WEBSITE: www.ahilyafort.com
Rs. 5,500 per night per person, which includes all meals, massages, and a boat ride
For reservations, call (011) 41551055
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