Kandahar restaurant at The Oberoi is something of a legend… And a favourite with generations of Mumbai’s business fraternity. Gurtaj and I re-visited it for a feast of quintessentially Indian flavours, and took the time to savour, have a conversation, and relax, for a change...
The welcome sound of gentle classical strings and tabla waft through the corridor as we approach Kandahar. With its impeccable reputation and many years of pleasing Mumbai’s most discerned palates, we are already expecting only the best. And once again, The Oberoi doesn’t fail to deliver a special experience.
While the restaurant’s decor is not outstanding, the grand view of the sea and Marine Drive, and the smooth, professional service more than make up for it. And of course, passing by the glass-front kitchen works up a Herculean appetite, and the imagination goes wild in anticipation of the flavours to come.
ON THE MENU…
We totally let chef Narayan Rao take over the dinner selection, and it was the best decision possible!
For starters, a selection of succulent kababs, of course (Murgh Malai and Chicken Tikka). But the absolute highlight was a delicious corn on the cob (Bhuna Bhutta), coated with yogurt and spices, and roasted to perfection in the tandoor. Skewed on an elegant brass holder, it tasted irresistible to the last bite! But what got us munching endlessly was the traditional papad, on which we dabbed some green chilli pickle. All pickles here are homemade, and the chef is particularly proud of this one, a mix of mild and hot chillies and panch poron (a mix of five spices). And there’s another temptation in a jar on our table – a crunchy garlic pickle.
Instead of rushing with the main course, the chef gives us a much-needed break to sip on nimbu pani pink with rock salt (or rather Gurtaj sips it as I HATE rock salt), and the most refreshing thin chaas (a yogurt drink) laced with subtle spices and sprinkled generously with dhania leaves.
What follows is a truly ‘homemade’ meal delivered by 5-star staff. India’s favourite dishes and flavours take centre stage at our table:
- starting off with nalli ghosht (lamb on the bone, slow-cooked in meticulously and almost scientifically layered spices, condiments and yogurt. The gravy is then strained – no wonder it’s so smooth. Every tiny glistening drop of oil looks perfect!)
- elegant brass bowls of black daal steam away (a traditional thick, brown Indian lentil stew, for which several "signature" Indian restaurants claim to have the best recipe. Gurtaj's favourite is Bukhaara's, part of the Sheraton group, but I think this one is excellent too. However, the one we agree upon completely is the black daal at 1000 Oaks restaurant in Pune) . The consistency is thick and generous, tasting creamier with every spoonful.
- Miniature achari aloos gleefully roll on our plates, tasting perfectly with ajwain ki roti
- A green touch is provided by the methi cooked to perfection – just right, still fresh, its colour vibrant, as if it has just been plucked. And we go through a historic moment that evening, when Gurtaj actually eats methi (a very bitter grassy vegetable) - in normal circumstances, I would not even dream of him having it!!!
The chef insists on dessert, although there’s hardly place for any! But we are pleasantly surprised by the restaurant’s invention of a mini dessert platter – three sweet dishes of your choice, served in miniature, on stark white crockery. The chef has selected for us a phirnee (disguised as an elegant crème brulee), a rabdi and an absolutely delicious malai kulfi.
Kandahar restaurant, The Oberoi Hotel, Nariman Point, Mumbai 21. For reservations call (022) 66326210
The welcome sound of gentle classical strings and tabla waft through the corridor as we approach Kandahar. With its impeccable reputation and many years of pleasing Mumbai’s most discerned palates, we are already expecting only the best. And once again, The Oberoi doesn’t fail to deliver a special experience.
While the restaurant’s decor is not outstanding, the grand view of the sea and Marine Drive, and the smooth, professional service more than make up for it. And of course, passing by the glass-front kitchen works up a Herculean appetite, and the imagination goes wild in anticipation of the flavours to come.
ON THE MENU…
We totally let chef Narayan Rao take over the dinner selection, and it was the best decision possible!
For starters, a selection of succulent kababs, of course (Murgh Malai and Chicken Tikka). But the absolute highlight was a delicious corn on the cob (Bhuna Bhutta), coated with yogurt and spices, and roasted to perfection in the tandoor. Skewed on an elegant brass holder, it tasted irresistible to the last bite! But what got us munching endlessly was the traditional papad, on which we dabbed some green chilli pickle. All pickles here are homemade, and the chef is particularly proud of this one, a mix of mild and hot chillies and panch poron (a mix of five spices). And there’s another temptation in a jar on our table – a crunchy garlic pickle.
Instead of rushing with the main course, the chef gives us a much-needed break to sip on nimbu pani pink with rock salt (or rather Gurtaj sips it as I HATE rock salt), and the most refreshing thin chaas (a yogurt drink) laced with subtle spices and sprinkled generously with dhania leaves.
What follows is a truly ‘homemade’ meal delivered by 5-star staff. India’s favourite dishes and flavours take centre stage at our table:
- starting off with nalli ghosht (lamb on the bone, slow-cooked in meticulously and almost scientifically layered spices, condiments and yogurt. The gravy is then strained – no wonder it’s so smooth. Every tiny glistening drop of oil looks perfect!)
- elegant brass bowls of black daal steam away (a traditional thick, brown Indian lentil stew, for which several "signature" Indian restaurants claim to have the best recipe. Gurtaj's favourite is Bukhaara's, part of the Sheraton group, but I think this one is excellent too. However, the one we agree upon completely is the black daal at 1000 Oaks restaurant in Pune) . The consistency is thick and generous, tasting creamier with every spoonful.
- Miniature achari aloos gleefully roll on our plates, tasting perfectly with ajwain ki roti
- A green touch is provided by the methi cooked to perfection – just right, still fresh, its colour vibrant, as if it has just been plucked. And we go through a historic moment that evening, when Gurtaj actually eats methi (a very bitter grassy vegetable) - in normal circumstances, I would not even dream of him having it!!!
The chef insists on dessert, although there’s hardly place for any! But we are pleasantly surprised by the restaurant’s invention of a mini dessert platter – three sweet dishes of your choice, served in miniature, on stark white crockery. The chef has selected for us a phirnee (disguised as an elegant crème brulee), a rabdi and an absolutely delicious malai kulfi.
Kandahar restaurant, The Oberoi Hotel, Nariman Point, Mumbai 21. For reservations call (022) 66326210
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